And there we were, although I wasn’t really feeling the hype. Like I was saying in the days running up to the presentation, I wasn’t too excited about the collection. I thought that, apart from a couple of quirky jackets, the designs weren’t very interesting, and the polka dot print absolutely anonymous and, frankly, boring. I also said mine was just an opinion formed on the sole basis of the preview press pictures, and that I was hoping to be proved wrong when I’d finally touch and feel the garments first hand. I’m afraid I’m going to have to say I wasn’t proved wrong at all…

As the much-awaited frilly coat/dress, considered to be the strong point of the collection, was nowhere to be found (and I did get there very early on), I went straight to the jackets. Oh, what disappointment. The fitting was weird and totally unflattering, the trimmings cheap, and the material thick and rough. All in all, unpleasant to the eye as well as to the touch. It may be argued that what I call “weird fitting” is merely the result of Rei Kawakubo’s unusual designs, and the trimmings are cheap because it is an H&M production. To which I would respond that the greatness of CdG is to create the most complicated design and still deliver immaculate shape, whereas it looks here that to put together a mass-produced collection for a giant retailer they compromised on everything, from shape to fabric to detail.

I tried on the pleated skirt, and what was its cool feature, the ‘detached’ pleat on the left, actually turned out to be its main fault, as it sat right on the hip, adding volume to the waistline – as we know, still a major deterrent factor for most girls, despite the trend for voluminous skirts this winter. To be perfectly honest, by this point I’d already seen enough, and I didn’t even try to find some trousers to comment on and, needless to say, I steered clear of the polka dots.

The only good piece I found was the wallet – which incidentally is simply an adaptation of a longtime CdG classic. I then wonder: what exactly was the point for this collaboration? I can see the marketing benefits for H&M, but to me this was some lazy output which didn’t quite live up to the amazing potential it might have developed. CdG has always been a name for few, and in my opinion so it should have stayed.

[all pictures by blogagog]

Now, do you remember the hype about the Marimekko collection a few months ago? I certainly do, as I also bagged myself a couple of pieces! But now, after having seen the preview pictures for the new CdG designs, I’m wondering: am I that excited again? Has Ms. Kawakubo really showed us what she can do this time? And what is it with the polka dots??? No, seriously.

So the collections ticks a few boxes. Deconstructed pieces, check. Asymmetries, check. As for the harem trousers… well, check because they are so much this season, but how “CdG” are they? The long tuxedo looks nice, we’ll see if it also fits nice. The casual asymmetrical top is quite funky – I like it in spite of my innate repulsion of navy next to black. But the navy trench coat – did we really need another trench coat? Will a label saying “CdG for H&M” make it any special? A bit superfluous, if you ask me.

And now for the polka dots – where on earth are they from? They may be alright for the tops (I like the mix ‘n’ match of different sized dots) but, I’m sorry, the trousers just look like pyjama bottoms…. I hope I’m not being overcritical, and I do hope to be proven wrong when I actually see the collection – I hope the cuts will be much finer that they look in the pictures, and the materials will feel great. But I’m afraid I’ll have a slightly more sceptical approach this time round.

The collection premieres in Tokyo to celebrate the opening of the first Japanese H&M store, it will be on preview at London’s H&M flagship store on Regent Street on 12th November, and will be available to the public the following day. Go there, have a look, and let me know your impressions!

Don’t get me wrong: they’re as beautiful as ever.

But I just don’t get the theme. There’s armours, and warriors. There is also masks and trapezes. There are thick red velvet curtains and clever lighting. Shiny surfaces and wonderful constructivist garments. But it doesn’t quite make sense – undoubtedly only to my myopic eye. Where’s the bigger picture?

I guess I’m only being confused by too much bling and red together – it’s all too scarily close to the bling and red indigestion we are going to endure once more this Christmas. I’m dreading the ultimate force-feeding, and am trying to put it off until it’s totally inevitable, so this sort of aesthetic self-protection must be what is momentarily shielding my vision!

[all images by blogagog]

Afroreggae is a cultural group from the favelas of Rio de Janeiro which works in the city’s poorest and most violent communities, transforming the lives of young people through arts-based activities, and have now established themselves in many communities outside Brazil as well. They are now running projects in several London areas, such as Shoreditch, Mile End, Hoxton and Stratford, in collaboration with The Learning Trust and the Borough of Hackney.

For more information on these amazing projects visit: www.favelatotheworld.org, www.afroreggae.org.br, www.peoplespalace.org.uk, www.learningtrust.co.uk

The garments revolve once again around a sports theme – A/W 08 is here, and sportswear-meets-couture is a big trend this season (just have a look at Miu Miu’s latest collection). The other strong theme is, of course, the 80′s inspiration – those Nu Rave kids out there are having a blast and fashion has been all too happy to cater for them lately. Neoprene hoodies against pixelated background – Selfridges once again nail it absolutely spot on.

[all images by blogagog]

[images via anthonyroussel.co.uk]

These truly outstanding pieces are made of layers of laser-cut wood, and come in the most extravagant shapes. The philosphy begind them is best explained in the artist’s own words: “The synthesis between drawing and architecture are the fundamental re occurring themes in my work. The jewellery I create function as sculptural objects as well as wearable pieces of body adornment in their own right. Mark making is a process integral to the way I design, essentially it is at the very core of the ideas I choose to explore. My work takes on a transient nature with delicate flowing lines that echo a rhythm. This rhythm has led me to the layering of sheet materials. Repetition is also a fundamental aspect to the way I construct my designs by building flat elements into a 3d form”.

Find out more, and find contact and stockists details at anthonyroussel.co.uk

From her biography: Aishleen Lester uses the language of mechanical objects combined with delicate subterranean forms – skins or ‘husks’ made of fabric and resin – in her sculptural installations. Like an unconscious visual or sensual memory, the sculptures offer themselves as vehicles to a fragile transitional space, where the rational and irrational collide, allowing elemental parts to take on a role beyond their commonplace function. The forms used in her installations appear familiar but displaced, existing in negative and positive. They are both slow mo & motionless as they adapt to their surroundings like true ‘relational’ beings, negotiating both floor and ceiling, volumic space and an ambiguous terrestrial depth. Their familiarity of form makes it possible to imagine how they these forms interacted and once moved. Are they the inner or the outer of something? Conceived to float above or below the water-line? Appearing or disappearing ?

[all images by blogagog]

Or rather, a fantasy sport theme. Mannequins are all donning Vespa helmets for protection, but they don’t actually seem fazed that they are floating about as if in a lunar module. Although they are employing some rather futuristic devices (in the way that Leonardo’s projects were ingeniously futuristic), it all looks like a whole lotta fun, and not a don’t-try-this-at-home advertisement for extreme outdoor activities. Along with windsurf sails and inflatable dinghies (here comes the summer!), it’s all a fabulous jumping and flying with the aid of spring-propelled seats, giant winged turbines, 3-wheeled pods and flying umbrellas.

Always worth a good half-hour stop on the Oxford Street pavement.

[all images by blogagog]

Rings a bell? So obviously Marimekko, isn’t it?

Well, so the day came, and down to H&M I went. And of course, good old me, what did I do? Well, bag myself two dresses of course! Only…. have a look at which ones I chose:

Yes, I’m afraid so… two dresses with the same print! But one is so 60′s, and the other one so 70′s – surely I had to have them?